There’s a particular sound you start to notice a few days into any trip across Cuba, and it has nothing to do with a concert ticket. It’s the scrape of a chair being dragged onto a sidewalk in the late afternoon. Somebody’s cousin shows…
There’s a specific moment on the road from Havana to Viñales — about 180 kilometers west, somewhere past Pinar del Río — when the flat Cuban lowlands stop and the valley opens up below you. Most people pull over without planning to. The mogotes…
