Las Parrandas de Remedios: Around nine in the evening on 24 December, in a town most visitors to Cuba drive past on the way to a beach, the lights in the main square go out. Then one half of the square comes back on…
There’s a sound in Santiago de Cuba that doesn’t exist anywhere else, and once a year the whole city is built around it. It comes from a Chinese cornet — a thin, nasal, almost painful horn that cuts over a wall of drums, brake…
